Monday, 25 February 2013

Nicolis Recioto della Valpolicella Classico DOC (2009)

Production of Amarone della Valpolicella has exploded in the last decade and it is killing the production of Recioto della Valpolicella, Amarone’s sweet cousin. Having existed for many years before Amarone della Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella now finds itself having to fight for the very same grapes used in the production of this now popular wine.

Produced from a blend of primarily Corvina and Rondinella grapes, the fruit destined for this 2009 Nicolis Recioto della Valpolicella was air-dried “appassimento style” (just like the fruit destined for Nicolis’ “Ambrosan” Amarone della Valpolicella reviewed yesterday) before fermentation in stainless steel tanks and a period of maturation in oak. Now four years after vintage, this 2009 Nicolis Recioto della Valpolicella remains the current vintage available on the UK market.

A notably intense ruby colour in the glass (even more so than the “Ambrosan” Amarone della Valpolicella that this wine was tasted alongside) this 2009 Nicolis Recioto della Valpolicella offers pronounced aromas of prune, cherry jam and chocolate. As it opens with air and time, further nuances of raisin and vanilla emerge.

Rich and intensely flavoured on the palate, it is again darker cherry and prune fruit notes that lead this 2009 Nicolis Recioto della Valpolicella alongside suggestions of cherry and plum. Perhaps a little more straightforward on the palate than the nose would suggest, this 2009 Recioto nonetheless offers the traditional twist of bitter chocolate on the finish along with a good level of retained acidity that cleanses the significant amount of unresolved sugar from the tongue.

Often consumed as a “Vino da Meditazione” (“wine for meditation”) in Italy, this 2009 Nicolis Recioto della Valpolicella would also be perfect with shortbread fingers (for dipping of course) or with chocolate-based desserts.

Nicolis Recioto della Valpolicella Classico DOC (2009)

Score: 86/100 – This 2009 Nicolis Recioto della Valpolicella is a well resolved and classic interpretation of this historic wine style.

Value for Money: 7/10Priced at around £24 for a 50cl bottle, this 2009 Nicolis Recioto della Valpolicella is an expensive prospective purchase. However, rarely is Recioto della Valpolicella seen at lower prices.