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Friulano (formerly known as Tocai, or Tocai Friulano) is one of Friuli’s
most historically significant grape varieties but is little known today. The
Specogna family have been working with it for more than fifty years now and
that experience shows in the quality of this 2012 Specogna Friulano.
Vinified 80% in stainless steel and 20% in oak (with 8 months of lees
aging in the same vessels in which it was fermented), this Specogna Friulano is
open on the nose and expressive on the palate when it is tasted. Aromas of
white flowers, apple and hints of vanilla waft up from this wine as it is
approached and a medium bodied palate is based on flavours of cider apples,
pear and almonds. A good length is emphasised by a slightly oily texture and
this Specogna Friulano can be considered a bottling of high quality overall.
SCORE: 87 points. (£14 UK)
STOCKISTS: The Drink Shop / Eclectic
Tastes / The Fine Wine Co.
The Vermentino and Verdicchio grape varieties are unusual bedfellows,
but here they are found in equal quantities within this “Vitiano” Bianco from Lazio’s
Falesco winery. Harvested from the Falesco winery’s vineyard holdings in
Umbria, the two grape varieties were fermented at low temperatures in stainless
steel tanks, before being blended together to produce the finished wine.
Offering subtle aromas of white flowers on the
nose, this Falesco “Vitiano” Bianco really comes alive on the palate as intense
flavours of lemon zest and nectarine emerge. Quite simply flavoured but
attractively lithe and eminently drinkable, this Falesco “Vitiano” Bianco may
not set a new trend for blending Verdicchio and Vermentino but will fulfil it’s
brief to refresh on a warm summer’s evening very nicely indeed.
SCORE: 85 points. (£10 UK)
STOCKISTS: The Fine Wine Company
The history of the estate that has today become Villa Sparina runs back
to the 18th Century when Marquis Franzoni of Genoa established a
farming estate in Piedmont. Located in Monterotondo (in the heart of the Gavi
zone of production) it wasn’t long before vines were planted and today the Moccagatta
family (who have run the Villa Sparina winery since the 1970s) have more than
70 hectares of land planted to vines.
A wide range of different wines are produced at Villa Sparina, with the
indigenous Cortese and Barbera grapes very much to the fore. Cortese is used to
produce still white wines under the Gavi di Gavi DOCG classification, as well
as “Charmat Method” and “Traditional Method” sparkling wines. Barbera is used
either on its own, or as a blend, to produce a range of enticing still red
wines and one interestingly styled still rosé.
Dolcetto, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc vines are also cultivated in
the Villa Sparina vineyards.
Best known for the “Monterotondo” Gavi di Gavi (a wine of considerable
quality that is produced from a cru selection of Cortese grapes), there has
been an attractive level of quality to all the Villa Sparina wines that The
Independent Wine Review has been fortunate enough to taste.
This varietal Grechetto is a new addition to the Falesco winery’s range
this year and this indigenous Umbrian grape variety (better known as one of
grape varieties that contributes to wines named “Orvieto”) is a welcome
addition indeed. Fermented in small oak
barrels, with cryo-maceration (a process where the crushed grape skins and juice
are kept together at extremely low temperatures) undertaken, this Falesco Grechetto
is a characterful wine of impressive intensity.
A fairly pale lemon colour in the glass, this new Falesco Grechetto is
more aromatic than many wines made purely from this grape variety (one impact
of the cryo-maceration) and offers a distinctive bouquet of melon and cut grass
notes. On the palate fruit flavours are more to the fore, with flavours of
gooseberry and grapefruit joined by the melon notes of the nose and a subtle
minerality. This is classy and fairly priced white that cries out for fish and
a white sauce.
SCORE: 87 points. (£10.50
UK) STOCKISTS: Vinoteca / The Good
Wine Shop
Villa Sparina is known for it’s Gavi, but this is not the sort of Gavi
that you will find stacked high amongst your local supermarket’s aisles. Older
vines naturally deliver low yields of high quality Cortese grapes and partial
malolactic fermentation, along with some maturation on the lees of fermentation,
make for a characterful and intensely flavoured wine.
A fairly pale colour in the glass, this “entry
level” Villa Sparina Gavi from the 2012 vintage offers bright aromas that are
reminiscent of peaches, pineapples and green apples, before an intensely
flavoured palate unfolds. Leading with flavours of green apple and peach, a
bright acidity drives this Villa Sparina Gavi as notes of pineapple and a twist
of lime juice emerge. There is an impressive length and clean finish as this
Gavi fades.
A more serious bottling than some Gavi, this
Villa Sparina offering will show best alongside fish or pasta dishes whilst it
is relatively young. Why not try it with cod, roasted yellow peppers and
saffron infused rice.
SCORE: 88 points. (£18 UK)
STOCKISTS: Borough Wines / Vini
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