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Ribolla Gialla is not a grape variety that we get to see much of in the
UK, which is a shame because it tends to produce characterful wines that are
somewhat in-line with modern consumer tastes. Indigenous to the Friuli region
of North East Italy, the Specogna family fermented this example of Ribolla
Gialla in stainless steel tanks, before maturing 20% of it in oak and 80% in
stainless steel for 8 months. Specogna’s trademark period of skin maceration preceded
the fermentation.
A lemon colour of moderate intensity in the glass, this 2012 Ribolla
Gialla from Specogna is quite restrained on the nose, before becoming
considerably more expressive on the palate. Based around flavours reminiscent
of pears and almonds, there is also a real mineral salinity that runs
throughout this classy and well balanced wine. Bright and quite lean (despite
the partial maturation in oak), this Specogna Ribolla Gialla is also
impressively long on the finish.
SCORE: 87 points. (£15 UK)
STOCKISTS: Eclectic Tastes / The
Drink Shop / Wine Direct
Lazio’s Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone is one of Italy’s more
recognisably named wine classifications and Falesco’s interpretation of this
wine is today one of the zone’s most widely distributed.
The legend has it that in the 12th Century a bishop was
travelling through the Italian countryside to meet the Pope, but sent a scout ahead
to see if the wine in each village ahead was any good. If good wine found the
scout would mark “Est!” (“It is!”) above the door of the nearest inn. The story
goes that when the scout got to Montefiascone in Lazio, that he was so happy
with the wine he wrote “Est! Est!! Est!!!” and the legend was born.
A blend of (primarily) Trebbiano, with the Malvasia and Roscetto grape
varieties also used, this 2012 Falesco Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone is a
light and subtle wine which will surely hold appeal for many drinkers. There
are hints of white flower on the nose, with lemon and apple flavours on the
palate. There is not enough acidity for this to be considered a “modern” style
of white but it will nonetheless find its place as a house white in many
Italian restaurants.
SCORE: 81 points. (£9 UK)
STOCKISTS: Wine Direct / Exel Wines
/ Hawkshead Wines
Friulano (formerly known as Tocai, or Tocai Friulano) is one of Friuli’s
most historically significant grape varieties but is little known today. The
Specogna family have been working with it for more than fifty years now and
that experience shows in the quality of this 2012 Specogna Friulano.
Vinified 80% in stainless steel and 20% in oak (with 8 months of lees
aging in the same vessels in which it was fermented), this Specogna Friulano is
open on the nose and expressive on the palate when it is tasted. Aromas of
white flowers, apple and hints of vanilla waft up from this wine as it is
approached and a medium bodied palate is based on flavours of cider apples,
pear and almonds. A good length is emphasised by a slightly oily texture and
this Specogna Friulano can be considered a bottling of high quality overall.
SCORE: 87 points. (£14 UK)
STOCKISTS: The Drink Shop / Eclectic
Tastes / The Fine Wine Co.
The Vermentino and Verdicchio grape varieties are unusual bedfellows,
but here they are found in equal quantities within this “Vitiano” Bianco from Lazio’s
Falesco winery. Harvested from the Falesco winery’s vineyard holdings in
Umbria, the two grape varieties were fermented at low temperatures in stainless
steel tanks, before being blended together to produce the finished wine.
Offering subtle aromas of white flowers on the
nose, this Falesco “Vitiano” Bianco really comes alive on the palate as intense
flavours of lemon zest and nectarine emerge. Quite simply flavoured but
attractively lithe and eminently drinkable, this Falesco “Vitiano” Bianco may
not set a new trend for blending Verdicchio and Vermentino but will fulfil it’s
brief to refresh on a warm summer’s evening very nicely indeed.
SCORE: 85 points. (£10 UK)
STOCKISTS: The Fine Wine Company
The history of the estate that has today become Villa Sparina runs back
to the 18th Century when Marquis Franzoni of Genoa established a
farming estate in Piedmont. Located in Monterotondo (in the heart of the Gavi
zone of production) it wasn’t long before vines were planted and today the Moccagatta
family (who have run the Villa Sparina winery since the 1970s) have more than
70 hectares of land planted to vines.
A wide range of different wines are produced at Villa Sparina, with the
indigenous Cortese and Barbera grapes very much to the fore. Cortese is used to
produce still white wines under the Gavi di Gavi DOCG classification, as well
as “Charmat Method” and “Traditional Method” sparkling wines. Barbera is used
either on its own, or as a blend, to produce a range of enticing still red
wines and one interestingly styled still rosé.
Dolcetto, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc vines are also cultivated in
the Villa Sparina vineyards.
Best known for the “Monterotondo” Gavi di Gavi (a wine of considerable
quality that is produced from a cru selection of Cortese grapes), there has
been an attractive level of quality to all the Villa Sparina wines that The
Independent Wine Review has been fortunate enough to taste.
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