Umani Ronchi “San Lorenzo” Rosso Conero DOC (2011)

When wine made from the Montepulciano grape variety arrives in the UK it has normally come from Abruzzo, which makes this Umani Ronchi “San Lorenzo” Rosso Conero quite rare in that it comes from further north than Abruzzo (in fact it comes from the region of Marche). Here (aided by the warm summers in the south of the region) robust red wines are made under the Rosso Conero and Conero Riserva classifications. 

Vinified in stainless steel tanks (and with a year in oak) this 2011 Umani Ronchi “San Lorenzo” Rosso Conero offers a relatively pure bouquet of morello cherries, freshly picked plums and crushed flowers. The palate is dry, full and intensely flavoured. Showing slightly more complexity than was in evidence on the nose, the palate of this “San Lorenzo” Rosso Conero offers charcoal mineral notes alongside the primary flavours of plum and cherry that were obvious before. Slightly grippy tannins are paired with a juicy acidity that offers the choice of mid-term cellaring or immediate consumption.

SCORE: 86 points. (£12 UK) STOCKISTS: Fareham Wine Cellar / Great Western Wine / Invinity Wines

Tasca d’Almerita - Producer Profile

Tasca d‘Almerita is a winery that can count itself as one of Sicily’s venerable wine survivors. So much has changed when it comes to winemaking in Sicily over the past fifty years (and many “old” producers have disappeared), yet eight generations of the Tasca family have worked hard to allow Tasca d‘Almerita not only to survive, but to flourish over the last 200 years since the winery was founded in 1830.

Today extending to five different estates (four of which are on the main island and one of which is one the northern island of Salina), the Tasca family’s vineyard holdings extend to more than 500 hectares and more than 3 million bottles of Tasca d’Almerita labelled wine is bottled each year. One of the most important producers in Sicily as a result, winemakers Laura Orsi, Giuseppe Tasca, and Carlo Ferrini craft an extensive range of more than 25 different wines.

The flagship of the Tasca d’Almerita range is the “Rosso del Conte” Nero d’Avola that hails from the main Regaleali Estate in Palermo and is bottled under the Contea di Sclafani DOC. Having scored well when tasted in its youth, this is one of Sicily’s most age-worthy Nero d’Avola based wines and will surely reward extended cellaring.

Also worthy of a mention is Tasca d’Almerita’s “Capofaro” Malvasia from Salina, the 2008 vintage of which score particularly well when tasted in January 2013.

There is a sense with the pricing of some of these wines that you are buying 200 years of reputation rather than the wines alone, but there is an impressive strength in depth in the quality of the Tasca family’s wines.

See all Tasca d’Almerita wine reviews -->

Tasca d’Almerita “Tascante” Sicilia IGT (2009)

Tasca d’Almerita’s “Tascante” is the “flagship” wine made at Tasca d’Almerita’s Tascante Estate, which sits on the northern slopes of Mount Etna at around 700 metres above sea level. Produced from 100% Nerello Mascalese (a variety that has thrived on these slopes for hundreds of years), the mineral rich volcanic soils and climate moderated by altitude has the ability to produce complexly and intensely flavoured wines. 

Occasionally likened to Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo here the Nerello Mascalese grapes that make up this “Tascante” live up to these comparisons with a nose redolent with the aromas of crushed rose petals, red cherries and tea (often descriptors used for Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo). Medium bodied and slightly savoury in style, it is plum and red cherry flavours that define this Tasca d’Almerita “Tascante” initially in the mouth, before more developmental notes of tea and candied citrus peels emerge as the flavours evolve. Slightly austere tannins and a good level of acidity promise further aging potential. This 2009 “Tascante” can be drunk now, or cellared through to 2019.

SCORE: 90 points. (N/A UK) STOCKISTS: N/A 

Umani Ronchi “Cumaro” Conero Riserva DOCG (2008)

It’s rare to see red wine from the Italian region of Marche in the UK and so the opportunity to sample this maturing Umani Ronchi “Cumaro” (which is bottled under the Conero Roserva DOCG) is a rare treat. Composed of 100% Montepulciano grapes that were harvested from a maritime influenced vineyard with notably calcareous soils, this 2008 “Cumaro” Conero Riserva was fermented in stainless steel tanks ahead of just over a year of maturation in oak barriques. 

An intense ruby colour in the glass (with a few more rustic hints denoting this wine’s advancing age), this 2008 “Cumaro” Conero Riserva from Umani Ronchi offers a powerful bouquet of dark cherry and plum aromas, with pepper spice notes emerging as air gradually permeates the surface. Full bodied and slightly savoury in style on the palate, this is an impressively and intensely flavoured Montepulciano that is now beginning to show signs of development from the time that has been spent in bottle. Notes of tea and earth join the dark cherry and plum notes of nose, with pepper and wood spice marking the finish. 

Drinking well now, this Umani Ronchi “Cumaro” Conero Riserva could also be cellared for a further five years. 

SCORE: 89 points. (£20 UK) STOCKISTS: Amazon / Drink Finder / Cantina Caputo

Tasca d’Almerita Grillo “Cavallo delle Fate” Sicilia DOC (2012)

This 2012 “Cavallo delle Fate” Grillo is the first vintage of this new wine from benchmark Sicilian producer Tasca d’Almerita. Grillo is an indigenous Sicilian grape variety and here it is harvested from Tasca d’Almerita’s Regaleali Estate in the hills of the Sicilian interior. Different portions of Grillo grapes were harvested at different times (so as to bring different characteristics to the finished wine) before this “Cavallo delle Fate” Grillo was fermented in stainless steel tanks. 

Matured for four months on the less of fermentation in the Tasca d’Almerita winery, there is an impressive intensity of flavour to this “Cavallo delle Fate” Grillo. Flavours of white peach lead, with hints of lime zest and sage adding depth. A slightly oily texture is offset by a growing minerality as this “Cavallo delle Fate” Grillo develops on the tongue and the finish itself is long and saline in nature. Nicely integrated acidity provides just enough drive. Drink this in the next two years.

SCORE: 88 points. (£11 UK) STOCKISTS: Amazon